Seal a wire connection in 60 seconds so it never corrodes or fails for years.
It seals the entire splice inside solid polymer, better than the factory protects a wiring harness, so water has no open end to creep into. Crimp it, seal it, and never worry about it again.
2 molds you choose · 50 marine-grade butt connectors · 80W glue gun · reusable molds · made in the USA
You've tried everything to seal wires and connectors properly — and they still turn green from corrosion.
You crimp it, even solder it if you can and finally you wrap it up in tape or smear on the grease and shrink-tube over the top. And a season later the lights start to flicker, you pull the connection apart, and the copper underneath is already gone green.
A splice about to fail
Every method you've got leaves the wire an open end, and water or humidity only needs one entry point. It wicks in under the insulation, creeps up the strands, and turns a connection you thought was finished into a problem you get to find all over again. Usually in the rain or at the worst possible time.
Water needs a single entry point — and it finds it every time.
Corrosion creeps under the insulation where you can't see it.
High resistance, dirty power, and gear that quietly dies.
Another Saturday chasing a fault you already "fixed."
The wrong way
Strip it → crimp it → solder it (if you can) → liquid tape → dielectric grease → heat-shrink → and hope.
The correct way
Strip it → crimp it → seal it in the mold → and never worry about it again.
Seal it today and pull it apart a year, 5 years or 10 years later — and the copper will be as clean as the day you crimped it.
No green corrosion or any flicker. No Saturday spent chasing through wires you can't even find. The connection you made once stays made, through mud, rain, snow, road spray, and salt, and you forget it's even there. That's the whole promise of SpliSeal.
There's no open end for water to find.
Heat shrink seals the outside of a joint but leaves both ends open, and that's exactly where water gets in. A crimp on its own is worse. It's an open barrel, a corrosion magnet.
SpliSeal takes a different path. You crimp it like always, then you wrap the entire splice in a solid shell of potting polymer. The whole joint gets encased: the connector, the bare copper, the gap where the insulation meets the wire. Water hits a sealed surface and runs off, because there's nowhere left for it to wick in. That's the same way the connections inside a factory wiring harness are protected. SpliSeal just makes it something you can do on a workbench in about a minute.
A solid shell around the whole splice
The connector. The bare copper. The gap where the insulation meets the wire. All of it encased in potting polymer — so water has a sealed surface to run off, not an open end to creep into.
Meet the SpliSeal Basic Kit
Everything you need to seal a connection for good, packed in one canvas bag.
Everything in one bag
SpliSeal Basic Kit
- Canvas Tool Bag$29
- 2 Molds (you choose)$78
- 1 Clamp$19
- 10 Sealant Sticks$24
- 80W Glue Gun$49
- Combo Crimper / Stripper$26
- Mold Release$12
- Wire Cleaner$9
- 50 Butt Connectors$19
- Reusable for life
- Secure checkout
- Marine-grade
Crimp it, mold it, seal it — in about 60 seconds.
Scroll to watch the real mold open, take your crimped splice, and seal it shut — one frame flowing into the next.
Scroll
- 01
Crimp
Strip your wires and crimp on a marine-grade butt connector with the combo tool — the same move you already know. Meet the reusable billet-aluminum mold.
- 02
Open the mold
The billet-aluminum mold splits into two halves with the sealing channel running down the middle.
- 03
Load the splice
Set the crimped connector into the channel and close the clamp — the mold shapes a clean, even seal every time.
- 04
Seal it shut
Run in the hot polymer with the glue gun, give it about 60 seconds, and pop out a splice wrapped in a solid weatherproof shell — wire through, sealed for life.
- Crimp to weatherproof in about 60 seconds
Everything you need to seal. Nothing you don't.
Each piece earns its place in the bag — feature and the reason it matters.
80W Glue Gun
Runs the polymer hot enough to flow into every gap around the splice — not just over the top of it.
Sealant Sticks
The potting polymer itself. This is the shell that locks out moisture and corrosion for good.
Molds (you choose)
Billet aluminum and reusable. Each one shapes a clean, consistent, OEM-looking seal, splice after splice.
Butt Connectors
Marine-grade and ready to crimp, so you can start sealing connections out of the box.
Combo Crimper / Stripper
Strip the wire and crimp the connector with one tool. One less thing to dig for.
Clamp
Holds the mold closed while the polymer sets, so every seal comes out tight and even.
Wire Cleaner
Preps the wire so the polymer actually bonds. The step that makes the seal last.
Mold Release
Pops each finished seal out of the mold clean, no mess and no sticking.
Canvas Tool Bag
Keeps the whole system in one place — ready for the truck, the boat, or the job box.
Why the old fixes keep failing
Same wire, two endings. Without SpliSeal — left open the old way to corrode. With SpliSeal — the same splice locked inside the mold.
Without SpliSeal
With SpliSeal
The usual ways
SpliSeal
The old fixes buy you a season. SpliSeal seals it once.
Get the Complete Kit — $215.95Sealed once. Still connected.
"SpliSeal wraps the butt connection in an OEM-looking cocoon of polymer that's impervious to moisture and corrosion — and it goes on about as fast as the connector itself.
As featured on MotorTrend
"If you're installing permanent lights and spending hours on the project, isn't it worth it to know the connections stay connected and watertight?
Reddit
Pick the two wire sizes you splice most
Your kit ships with two reusable billet-aluminum molds — choose the gauges you splice most, and drop in more sizes any time.
The expensive part isn't the kit. It's the connection you didn't seal.
A wet or corroded connection doesn't just stop working. It goes high-resistance first. Resistance turns into heat right at the joint, and that heat is what melts the connector, cooks whatever it feeds, and in the wrong spot, starts a fire. Each one below costs more than the kit.
Cut back to shiny copper and splice it again, every season, forever. It costs you the afternoon and the aggravation.
A flaky connection feeds dirty power, and that's what kills the gear on the end of it: an LED bar, a controller, a pump, an amp. Tens to hundreds of dollars gone because of a five-cent splice.
An intermittent fault only shows up over a bump or after a rain. You burn a Saturday, or a shop burns billable hours, chasing a connection that looks perfectly fine.
When corrosion creeps far enough up the wire, the only real fix is to replace the whole run. A new harness plus the labor to pull it runs into the hundreds.
A dead trailer light at night is a ticket, or worse. A circuit that quits mid-crossing or offshore is a tow and a ruined day.
The rare, expensive tail. A connection that overheats or arcs near anything that burns can take the trailer, the boat, or the truck with it. It started at a splice that cost almost nothing to seal.
Seal it once for about a dollar — or keep paying for the one you didn't.
The SpliSeal Basic Kit is $215.95, one time. Reusable molds that seal connection after connection — made in the USA, built for 12V and low-voltage DC. It pays for itself the first fault it saves you.
- Reusable for life
- Made in the USA
- One-time payment
Made for the person who wants to do things right from the start.
This kit is for you if…
- You wire your own trailer, boat, truck, RV, off-road rig, or outdoor lights.
- You're done cutting back corroded wire and rewiring the same run twice.
- You work on 12V and low-voltage DC and want the connection to outlive the project.
- You'd rather pay once for a tool that seals hundreds of connections than keep buying tape and shrink.
It's probably not for you if…
- You need one throwaway splice and don't care if it lasts.
- You're wiring household 120V or 240V mains — SpliSeal is low-voltage only.
- You're working right on the engine, the exhaust, or any high-heat area.
- The cheapest possible connector matters more to you than never redoing it.
Sounds like your kind of work? Seal it once — never redo it again.
Get the SpliSeal Basic Kit — $215.95Built in the USA to fix the connections that always fail
SpliSeal started with a simple, stubborn problem: the wire connection that looks perfect on the bench and corrodes a few months later, out of sight, until something stops working.
So we built a system that seals the splice the way a factory does, and made it simple enough to do anywhere, on a trailer, in a bilge, under a truck, or out on a job. Every SpliSeal product is made in the USA and built for the people who'd rather do it right than do it again.
- USA-madeBuilt & tested on a real workbench
- Marine-gradeSealed tight against water & corrosion
- Reusable for lifeAluminum molds never wear out
Straight answers before you buy
Is it actually better than adhesive heat shrink?
Do I need to know how to solder?
What can I use it on?
Will the seal hold up to vibration?
How many connections will one kit make?
Which two molds should I pick?
Stop redoing connections over and over again.
The SpliSeal Basic Kit — made in the USA. Built for 12V and low-voltage DC connections.
Get the SpliSeal Basic Kit
Pick your two molds and we'll get your kit moving.
Built for 12V and low-voltage DC connections.
Seal it once and never worry about redoing it again.
The SpliSeal Basic Kit gives you the whole toolkit you need in one bag: glue gun, polymer, two molds you choose, 50 connectors, and the tools to seal a connection that outlives the wire. $215.95, made in the USA.
P.S. The connection you don't seal today is the one you'll be cutting back to clean the copper tomorrow. Seal it now and forget it's there.